Maintenance
Tire Pressure
Pressure is the cheapest thing on this page and the one that changes the most. An underinflated tire flexes more, runs hotter and wears its shoulders off — and in Florida heat, hot plus low is how sidewalls fail on I-595. Overinflated is no better: less rubber on the road, a harsher ride and a strip of wear straight down the center. Correct pressure is also the single easiest way to get the fuel economy the car was designed to have.
Open the driver's door and look at the placard on the door jamb. That sticker is the number your vehicle's engineers chose for your car, at its weight, on its suspension — front and rear, plus the spare. It is the source of truth.
The big number molded into the tire sidewall is not your target. That is the maximum pressure the tire is rated to hold, not the pressure it should run at. Filling to the sidewall number gives you a hard ride, a narrow contact patch and tread that wears out down the middle.
One more South Florida detail: check pressure cold, before you drive. Heat from a highway run or an afternoon in a parking lot can add several PSI, and topping off a hot tire leaves it low the next morning.
Checklist
- Check all four tires cold — parked at least three hours, or before your first drive
- Read the driver's door-jamb placard for your target PSI, front and rear
- Use a real gauge, not the one bolted to a gas-station hose
- Do not forget the spare — it loses air sitting still
- Re-check after a big temperature swing or a cold front
- Look at the valve stems while you are down there; cracked rubber leaks
How often
Once a month, and before any long drive. Any time the low-pressure light comes on, check it that day.
Rather we did it? (South Florida)
Anywhere else in the continental United States, buy the tires here and have your own installer fit them.